Good as appetizers or entrees
Sizzling cheeses
By Valerie Vinyard
vvinyard@azstarnet.com
Tucson, Arizona | Published: 05.15.2008
Usually when something is cheesy, it's silly and ridiculous.
In this case, cheesy is anything but.
Let's face it: A sizzling appetizer of melted cheese might not seem like a good idea now, but once you sit in a restaurant's bone-chilling air conditioning, it becomes a perfect way to scoff at summer's simmer.
Tucson restaurants mostly prepare their melted cheese dishes a little differently. Mexican cheese dishes often are made with jack and mozzarella and sometimes are served on a heat source to keep it hot.
With Greek varieties, they're served flaming at the table, whether they're feta or another Greek variety.
"It's melted, it's toasted and it's good. Everybody loves cheese," says David Hernandez, general manager of La Parilla Suiza on East Speedway. "The style has been brought over from Mexico."
At La Parilla Suizas, there are four ways to get melted cheese as an appetizer, including different sizes and with added ingredients, such as mushrooms and chorizo. The family-size Queso a la Parilla ($9.49) is a best-seller.
Melted queso has been on its menu since the company started in 1969 in Mexico City.
Queso fundido wasn't on the menu when Zivaz Mexican Bistro opened in November 2005, but it appeared there last summer because of "popular demand."
Now it is one of Zivaz's top-selling appetizers.
"It's quite popular," said Felipe Valenzula, 27, who owns Zivaz with his family. "There are people who love cheese and can eat it as an entree."
George Varnasidis, 50, co-owner of Athens on 4th Avenue, agreed.
"People absolutely love it," Varnasidis said. "One thing that saganaki does; it opens up your appetite. The Mediterranean diet is the best diet in the world."
We talked to a few places in town that feature melted cheese on their menus.
Cheesy goodness abounds at these restaurants, too
• Athens on 4th Avenue, 500 N. Fourth Ave., 624-6886: The restaurant's tiri saganaki kefalotiri cheese ($8.75) is sautéed in butter and flamed with brandy. Served with pita bread.
• Cuvée World Bistro, 3352 E. Speedway, 881-7577: With its Chihuahua cheese, roasted tomatoes, poblano chiles and flour tortillas, Cuvée's queso fundido ($9) easily can serve as an entree. Pair a glass of wine with this appetizer from 4 to 10 p.m. Mondays-Saturdays and it will cost you only a dollar more.
• Guadalajara Grill, 1730 E. Prince Road, 323-1022: Chorizo con queso fundido ($8.49) is melted jack cheese and pork chorizo served with tortillas.
• La Parilla Suiza, 5602 E. Speedway, 747-4838; 2720 N. Oracle Road, 624-4300; 4250 W. Ina Road, 572-7200: This Mexico City-style chain offers a bevy of cheese appetizers. Families should opt for the Queso a La Parilla ($9.49), which is jack and mozzarella cheese served on a tableside grill and feeds about six, General Manager David Hernandez said.
• My Big Fat Greek Restaurant, 95 W. River Road, 888-0428: The restaurant's flaming saganaki ($7.95) is imported kefalograviera cheese, a firm and salty variety. The dish is then flamed with ouzo and metaxa, a Greek brandy, at the table.
Another dish is the flaming feta ($7.95), which is sautéed feta with diced tomatoes and jalapeños, olive oil and oregano. That, too, is flamed at the table using ouzo and metaxa.
• Zivaz Mexican Bistro, 4590 E. Broadway, 325-1234: The appetizer of queso fundido is broiled cheese with roasted corn, onion, red bell and poblano pepper mix. Tortillas come on the side. ($7.45 for a large; $5.45 for a small).
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